Ten miles out to sea, tiny Monhegan Island is Maine in miniature, a 700-acre artist’s rendering of everything that makes this stretch of coast called Down East great. On its eastern side, towering headland cliffs greet the pounding Atlantic, while from the western (village) side hikers can set out on 17 miles of wooded trails that criss-cross the island. Only about 60 people live here year-round. There are no cars, and no paved roads; until 1984 there wasn’t even electricity. What there is is peace and quiet—and artists, lots of artists.